Oscar Contenders and Fashion Week Highlights from São Paulo and Mexico
Also Top films from the London Film Fest, Dia de Muertos Gala, Ecuador at Dutch Design Week and more!
Hello and Bem-vindos a GEN33! A newsletter about insights into the business and culture of LATAM’s creative industries.
In this edition, I spoke to the wonderful Paty Dantas, who shared her top films from the London Film Festival, and insights about two potential Oscar contenders for next year – one a Brazilian film and the other a French production featuring top-notch international talent (LATAM and non-LATAM).
I also had a great chat with Gabriel Fusari from FFW, who covered São Paulo Fashion Week and shared his top shows and thoughts. (By the way, keep reading for an exciting discovery from our chat—no clickbait!). I also have highlights from Mexico Fashion Week and other updates from the GEN33 territories.
Let’s go!
Could Emilia Pérez and I’m Still Here be LATAM’s Oscar Contenders?
The BFF London Film Fest (yes, it feels like ages ago, but there’s only one of me writing this newsletter!) ran from 9 to 20 October 2024, and 15 films by Latin American directors participated (a full list below). I had the chance to chat with 🇧🇷 Brazilian-born, London-based film journalist Patricia Dantas, who’s been covering the festival for 12 years! She shared her top picks from this year’s films and insights into two potential Oscar contenders.
One of this year’s most anticipated films, Emilia Pérez, is a musical directed by award-winner Jacques Audiard. It stars Selena Gomez, Zoe Saldana, Spanish-born Karla Sofia Gascón and Edgar Ramirez. Gascón made history as the first openly trans actor to win Best Actress at Cannes for her role in the film.This month, Gascón, who has lived in Mexico since 2009, also landed the cover of Vogue Mexico's November issue. The film will be available on Netflix on November 13th, but do see it in the theatre—it’s apparently worth it.
Dantas says it’s entertaining but she remains sceptical about its premise, where a notorious drug lord undergoes gender reassignment surgery to change their life. However, it could still be nominated for the 2025 Oscars, joining Brazilian film I’m Still Here by Walter Salles in the International Film category.
I’m Still Here is a reminder that we should never go back to a similar era where our human rights are not respected. — Paty Dantas.
Indeed, Brazilian cinema seems to be having a moment, particularly with I’m Still Here gaining traction globally. Starring Fernanda Torres, Fernanda Montenegro and Selton Mello— all industry legends. Based on a true story, it’s a family drama that sheds light on a dark period in Brazil’s history during the dictatorship—"a reminder that we should never go back to a similar era where our human rights are not respected," says Dantas.
After winning Best Screenplay at the Venice International Film Festival and an Audience Award at the Vancouver International Film Festival, Dantas believes the film has a strong chance at an Oscar nomination. "It’s been a long time since Brazilian cinema had such international visibility," she says, noting that the last film from the country to receive an Oscar nomination was Central do Brasil in 1999, also by Walter Salles and starring the Fernanda Montenegro.
Dantas also highligths the film Bury Your Dead, directed by Marco Dutra. It’s a unique horror set in apocalyptic rural Brazil, and it marks actor Selton Mello’s first foray into the genre. As Mello celebrates 40 years in the industry, he shared his excitement about being simultaneously involved in both projects.
More of Paty’s Favourites from the Festival:
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São Paulo Fashion Week Marks the Return of Alexandre Herchcovitch and Homages Journalist Regina Guerreiro
Last week marked the 58th season of São Paulo Fashion Week, which has been running since 1996 and is considered the largest fashion week in Latin America.
I didn’t attend personally but spoke to Gabriel Fusari producer at FFW, who attended all the shows and gave us the lowdown.😎
This season, SPFW returned to Ibirapuera Park as the main showspace; shows also took place at Iguatemi São Paulo shopping mall and other locations across the city. A total of 40 brands showcased their collections, with the debut of Normando and Dario Mittman joining veterans João Pimenta, Salinas and Lilly Sarti. The legendary Alexandre Herchcovitch inaugurated the event alongside Ponto Firme. Meanwhile, Fernanda Yamamoto closed on Monday 21st.
São Paulo Fashion Week continued its Cria Costura project, a social programme now in its sixth edition. Developed by Inmode and São Paulo's Economic Development and Labour Department, it's aimed at training in sewing, design and entrepreneurship in the city's deprived neighbourhoods. On this occasion, students were taught by renowned designers Jefferson de Assis and Rita Comparato, with styling by Dudu Bertholini.
This edition had the theme "The Queen's Jewels," paying tribute to journalist, and editor Regina Guerreiro, for which an exhibition was created at Pavilhão das Culturas Brasileiras in the Ibirapuera Park. It showcased items from her archive, including furniture and designs from her residence, curated by Renato de Caro.
Guerreiro is a sort of Diana Vreeland of Brazil (or so I was told). She edited Claudia magazine and was an editor of Vogue Brasil and Elle Brasil. She analyzed the fashion trends of the 2000s for Caras Moda and even had a YouTube channel. Previously, she had stints at several prominent Brazilian news journals and Interview magazine (yes, the famous magazine created by Andy Warhol had a Brazilian edition in the 1970s)*. She also founded a fashion consultancy firm in Brazil called Choc, (a playful mix of Chic and Shock). Guerreiro attended the exhibition's opening day.
*(That was the discovery I mentioned at the beginning. More on this soon!).
"The way Brazilians engage with fashion is closely tied to how she shaped fashion discourse in Vogue, Elle and Interview magazines, as well as in Caras. It feels as if the current fashion narrative mirrors that style she pioneered." - Gabriel Fusari.
And now the show highlights with commentary by Gabriel Fusari.
"Going back to my favourite runway shows, I think the first one was Normando. They kicked off with a classy collection – it's a brand from Amazonas. They showcased elegant clothes with latex and Brazilian cultural elements in the designs. If you're in Brazil, you should visit their store."
"The second show I liked was João Pimenta, a classic Brazilian designer, known for his tailoring. Everything was so beautifully crafted. It felt like true fashion, the kind that shows the designer really knows what they're doing.”
When the lights came on, it felt like a throwback to the '90s São Paulo Fashion Week, reminding me of its golden era—when the event was flush with money, everyone wanted to be there, and people watched it on DirecTV."
“I also liked Rafael Caetano. He's a menswear designer, and this collection was inspired by the work of Mauricio de Sousa, the creator of Turma da Mônica, a comic which is hugely popular in Brazil.” (Note: De Sousa is one of the most successful cartoonists in Latin America and arguably the world outside the US and Japan). “Those who grew up with it felt a deep emotional connection – how can I say – emocionado (excited). Like, "Oh my God, this is so cute, I need it." It was really beautiful.”
(Walerio Araujo also drew inspiration from De Sousa's Turma da Mônica, but his style is more playful and fantastical, with a Jeremy Scott-like flair. — Graciela Martin)
For it's part, Sol de Algodão, is a project promoting the importance of Brazilian cotton. They invited 12 Brazilian designers to create three outfits each for the runway. It was cool to see the same materials used but interpreted in different ways by each designer.
Mexico Fashion Week Focuses On Menswear for Spring Summer 2025
Another fashion week I appreciated from afar, but thankfully, my sources provided some insights and highlights. Also held last week but shorter than SPFW, Mexico City hosted the Spring Summer 2025 Fashion Week from 15 to 18 October at the Autocinema Coyote.
With over sixteen years of history, the event featured 20 runway shows and a series of talks. The latter were held through the MBFWMx Lab in collaboration with industry leaders from Marie Claire, Pinterest, and Vogue Mexico, aimed at creating educational dialogues about fashion and trends.
This edition spotlighted menswear, with brands like Boyfriend’s Shirt, Cristeros, Diego Zúñiga, Fábrica de Punto, Harris & Frank, MANCANDY, and Porfirio Leather showcasing their collections.
The event opened with the beloved Julia y Renata, showcasing a collection that I can described as monochromatic, ethereal and beautifully delicate. The event closer was veteran Alfredo Martinez, who found inspiration in powerhouse feminist artist Carmen Mondragón.
Other notable names included Alexia Ulibarri, with her edgy, rock-infused glam aesthetic; Daniela Villa, whose collection La Piscine offered a palette transporting us to the golden summers of the Côte d'Azur; Kris Goyri with vibrant sunset hues; and Sandra Weil, who found inspiration in the intersection between tech and humanity. This edition of MFW also welcomed newcomers Regina Guiot and Santosia.
I was a bit confused when I saw photos of Sandra Weil’s runway show with a girl sitting on the catwalk with her laptop – the ultimate remote work setup! Turns out it was Moncaya, a Spanish singer-songwriter based in Mexico, who opened the show with a performance alluding to Weil’s theme of “the technology of nature.” 🙃
For its part, 10-year-old firm Yakampot unveiled uniforms for Aeroméxico, inspired by the Cuauhpilli (noble Aztec eagle warriors.) These pieces connected the past and future of Mexican design. With support from @ngoimpacto and @dostierrasgoods, over 230 artisans from Los Altos de Chiapas crafted 33,000 patches.
As is customary, there was a special guest: Peter Sposito from Spain. Known for his focus on garment deconstruction, Sposito is a past winner of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent award in Madrid.
Thanks
for the tips!IN THE NEWS
Choquequirao: Peru’s New Machu Picchu in the Making?
As Machu Picchu’s popularity continues to soar, Peru is turning to Choquequirao, a lesser-known but equally breathtaking Inca site, to alleviate visitor pressure. Often called Machu Picchu’s “younger sister,” Choquequirao is poised to become a major attraction and a significant boost to Peru’s tourism economy.(The Brazilian Report).
Día de Muertos Celebrated as UNESCO World Heritage
Día de Muertos, one of Mexico’s most cherished traditions, has secured its place as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. This pre-Hispanic festivity brings together the living and the dead in vibrant celebrations, blending remembrance with community. As a globally recognised symbol of Mexican heritage, Día de Muertos remains a powerful tribute to the culture’s enduring spirit.(MXC.com)
Vogue Hosts Día de Muertos Gala
Vogue Mexico celebrated Día de Muertos with a stunning black carpet gala. Hosted by its head of content Karla Martínez de Salas with co-hosts actresses Zuria Vega and Yalitza Aparicio, the evening included a Cancino runway, who unveiled the “Plateros” collection. Later, DJ Mariana BO musicalised the night, and it was a star studded eve with Chiara Parravicini and Jorge López and a gathering of Vogue’s November cover stars Karla Sofía Gascón and Kenia Os. Explore the Gala and Tune in to VogueON, Vogue Mexico’s latest podcast. (It’s in Spanish though!)
Ecuador at Dutch Design Week 2024
Ecuadorian craftsmanship is being showcased at Dutch Design Week with a curated display led by KIKI, an independent platform promoting Ecuadorian design. The exhibit merges ancestral techniques with contemporary trends, showcasing Ecuador’s creative ethos: crafting with care, respect for nature and cultural reverence.
Mexico City Debuts ‘Pasado de Moda,’ at Museo del Estanquillo.
Pasado de Moda, the first exhibition in Mexico to explore the multifaceted world of fashion beyond individual designers or luxury, has opened in Mexico City. Curated in collaboration with viral Instagram project ficheraz (a Digital archive dedicated to preserve the legacy of vintage showgirls from Latin America), the exhibit delves into fashion’s impact on trade, culture and identity. It’s a major step forward for Mexican institutions recognising digital archives in shaping cultural discourse. from Sept 29 until January 2025 (Museo del Estanquillo).
Random Recs
Lara Ricote GRL/LATNX/DEF
As some of you may or may not know, I’m a comedy fan and, according to friends and family (not me!), a funny woman myself. So I wanted to recommend Lara Ricote’s comedy special.
She has such a sharp, quirky persona and this special is full of captivating, hilarious stories, all infused with her mischievousness and charm. In her very first full-hour special she discusses what it means to be a blend of (mainly) Mexican, American and Venezuelan, her hearing disability and not fitting others' expectations. Lara is funny, give it a watch.
THE MEME
On that note, I’m going to take a stab at doing a “Meme of the Week”. Magazines and newspapers always have (or had) a comic section, so I guess this is my version of it. I love memes and welcome your suggestions too!
THANK YOU for reading!
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